Selamat Tahun Baru!

All together now, to 2008: Good riddance.Since we're all now overanxious, overmedicated, and broke, may history treat this past year like a junior tranche of subprime-mortgage-backed collateralized debt obligations. (Tee hee, a little finance humor.)Hopefully 2009 will bring better things for all. And if not ... you can always wash the bad news away with a really good Pinot Noir.Selamat Tahun Ba...

Mideast mess, spilling elsewhere

What the world needs now is ... not the unholy mess coming out the Mideast. Yet again.Hard to know what to say, that hasn't already been said. It's the usual cycle of violence that serves no one. Hamas was not in the right to be rocketing Israel, and Israel isn't in the right with its shock-and-awe campaign against the Islamic paramilitary group. If these were children, we'd sit them all down in the corner and take away their marbles. Unfortunately these children all have high-tech weaponry, and millenia of religious grudges to work out.Now Indonesian militant groups are said to be recruiting fighters to send to Gaza, the government is calling...

Gamelan for misanthropes

Love the distinct and haunting sounds of gamelan music, but don't have a massive orchestra of Javanese or Balinese musicians handy?Then Soniccouture has just the product for you. It's a 24-GB library of 25 gamelan instruments, with 4,000 samples to draw from. For those unfamiliar, gamelan is an ensemble of bronze percussion instruments like gongs, chimes and xylophones. Said to be around since 800 AD or so, it's one of Indonesia's most unique cultural exports, and is promoted in the US by the American Gamelan Institute.It runs around $380 for the whole package. Basically, in your slippers and from your own basement, you can arrange and conduct...

Megawati as shopoholic?

Is it just me, or do most articles about Megawati Sukarnoputri contain the subtext that she's - as the saying goes - not the brightest bulb on the Christmas tree?I have no personal knowledge of her, or axe to grind. But it seems that many journalists dance diplomatically around the idea that she's not that swift, or that she's more consumed with subjects like gardening and shopping than les affaires d'etat.Now a new book more or less says it overtly. Dari Sukarno Sampai SBY doles out juicy anecdotes about Indonesian heads of state. Megawati, for her part, is said to "lose concentration" when it comes to geopolitics instead of cooking.Could be...

Indonesia and the Russian bear

Russia seems to be making a full-time occupation of tweaking American interests. Sending warships to Cuba, running roughshod over Saakashvili's Georgia, cutting off oil pipelines to Europe whenever it serves its interests.In short the old Cold War spirit is back, led by a veteran of those times, KGB functionary Vladmir Putin. Russia's latest salvo: Ramping up its military shipments abroad, including fighter jets to Indonesia. Two were just delivered, with more to come.Not that there's anything wrong with that. Indonesia is famously independent, back to the Sukarno days and the creation of the non-aligned movement, and can buy arms from whomever...

Merry Christmas!

What a year we've had. As the old Chinese curse goes, "May you live in interesting times."Global financial meltdown, wars and deaths, terror and heartache. Things you always thought you knew, turned out to be dead wrong. It was the kind of year that makes it hard to be an optimist.But amid the gloom, there have been moments of clarity and joy. The election of a new president, to break away from the tragic and unnecessary mistakes of the past eight years. A return to honesty and reality, of people living within their means and buying homes they can actully afford. The birth of my beautiful second son.And so, merry Christmas and happy holidays...

Orangutan Travel: A once-in-a-lifetime trip

Here's an amazing travel opportunity I came across: Not only can you visit the endangered orangutans of Kalimantan (Borneo), but you get Dr. Birute Galdikas as your personal guide and naturalist.To put that in context, it's kind of like having Stephen Hawking over to chat about the history of the universe, or having Toni Morrison write your Christmas cards. The woman is a living legend, and has almost single-handedly saved the orangutans from extinction.She's hosting a couple of seven-day trips in July of 2009, which you can read about here and here. The cost is $3395 per person, with airfare within Indonesia included, but you have to get yourself...

Setback for the Treeman

Not all endings are happy ones. Seems like Dede the 'Treeman,' the Javanese villager famed around the world and featured on a Discovery documentary about his rare medical condition, has suffered some setbacks on his road to wellness.Dede has bark-like growths over much of his body, giving him the look of a human tree and landing him in a local circus act to survive. But after treatment by American dermatologist Anthony Gaspari, it was discovered he suffers from the very common HPV virus ... but that his immune system was so compromised thanks to genetics, that his body wasn't able to fight it off. He underwent surgery three times this year, the...

Multiparty democracy as comic farce

Here in the States, it's always en vogue to ridicule the rigid two-party political system of Republicans and Democrats. And in quasi-dictatorships, the one-party option, like Golkar back in the Suharto days, is equally risible.But everyone's ultimate goal of multiparty democracy is a messy solution, too. Just think of Italy, which once gained fame for changing its government every few months. The idea of cobbled-together coalitions, where a party with a laughable minority of votes gets to govern (See: Yudhoyono, Susilo Bambang), is hardly the ideal either.A cautionary tale on this front comes, ironically, from my normally stable homeland of Canada....

Free Bahasa Indonesia classes!

Washington may be a crime-ridden blotch of humanity full of sneering career politicos, but hey, look on the bright side.Exhibit A: A 22-week Indonesian language class, offered by the local Embassy in D.C. I'm not sure what government kitty they're pulling the funding out of, but amazingly, it's totally free to applicants. I remember paying hundreds of bucks for my old Bahasa Indonesia class in Vancouver, so I'm green with jealousy. Memo to government functionaries: How about a similar class in New York City?Starting date for the free class is Feb. 11, 2009, and there are two language levels offered (Beginner I and II). Interested parties should...

Faith and footwear

I suppose something must be said about the Shoe Heard 'Round the World.Sometimes a single unforseen event comes to symbolize something larger than itself, and when it does, there's no stopping the brushfire. Such is the media trajectory of the size-10 shoe(s) tossed at President Bush during his recent Iraqi news conference. Years of a region's - and a faith's - anger, frustration, and personal animosity got distilled into one reporter's action.The Muslim world, including Indonesia as the faith's most populous outpost, has long seethed seethed with resentment towards the outgoing Republican and his efforts to reshape the region. In that larger...

Come on in, the water's fine!

The pungent Citarum River is getting some international attention, and it ain't pretty.Environmentalists claim the West Java waterway is among the world's most polluted, and from the accompanying photo they may just be right. Now the New York Times has taken a look at how the river - which supplies household water for 80% of Jakarta and its millions of residents (and factories, which aren't helping with their chemical dumping) - is basically a fetid cesspool. Enter the Asian Development Bank, and its $500 million loan to help clean things up. Ironically the financial aid is getting some local blowback, from those who say that the kitty will probably...

Currency crisis memories ...

Recent financial developments like the 40% drop in the stock market, on the back of a total bank meltdown; the housing implosion tied to sketchy subprime mortgages; and the collapse of Madoff investment funds, a $50-billion Ponzi scheme that wiped out high rollers worldwide; makes me reminisce about the Asian currency crisis of 1997/8.Remember when southeast Asian economies underwent painful devaluation of their currencies, helped along by the IMF? And were made to institute neocon economic policies to qualify for loans to get them out of the cascading mess? The impact of currency machinations was so great on regular folks, in Indonesia especially,...

The next Bali, part 432

If I had a nickel every time Lombok was referred to as "the next Bali" ... I'd be a very rich journalist.Not that the lush island, nestled to Bali's side, doesn't deserve all the attention. But for some reason it's the only trope that makes sense to Western editors. The latest cliche culprit is the Wall Street Journal, following on the heels of the New York Times' version a couple of months back.In fact the very same phrase was being used when I was lolling around Nusa Tenggara, back around 15 years ago. One of these days it'd be nice to read about Lombok on its own terms, rather than in relation to its Balinese cousin across the straits. But...

In baby news ...

For those of you who were wondering why I haven't been posting for a couple of days ...Welcome to the world, Julien Bryce Arthur Taylor!Happy and healthy, 7 lb 3 oz, and hungry as a horse. Born Thursday night in New York City.More posts as sleep allows ...

Indonesia's richest man no more ...

Times are tough all 'round, apparently. And not just for Detroit automakers or Wall Street investment banks. Just ask poor Aburizal Bakrie.The Master of the Universe - business tycoon, Indonesia's richest man in 2007, cabinet minister to boot - has been bumped from his position atop the country's wealthiest, according to Forbes magazine. Heck, he's not even a billionaire anymore.So who's the fellow with the deepest pockets now? Meet Sukanto Tanoto, pulp-and-paper king with a $2-billion net worth (although even that's been carved in half in a single year). Next up are the Hartono Brothers (sounds like a WWE tag team), Budi and Michael, who get...

Corruption, American style

Indonesia's been on the front lines of anti-corruption-fighting this last while, with the commission that's been kicking ass and taking names. Seems like every day some new bank honcho or government functionary is taken down. No wonder the nation climbed in Transparency International's index this year, becoming 'cleaner' than 17 additional countries.But to those who thought Indonesia had corruption issues all to itself, we present for your enjoyment: Illinois Governor Rod Blagojevich! Brazen enough to try selling President-elect Barack Obama's Senate seat to a half-dozen suitors for a cushy job, or cash, or maybe a combination of both. (Oh, and...

Irresistible adventure travel

Adventure-travel buffs, saddle up. GAP Adventures has uploaded its list of Indonesian options for 2009, and it's a perfectly delectable menu.In fact there are six adventures on tap, each more excruciating to read about, since with two toddlers I won't be able to go! Nonetheless, here they are, herein and forthwith: Bali Adventure, eight days including climbing Mt. Batur; Discover Lombok, nine days including summiting Mt. Rinjani; Best of Bali and Lombok, 15 days combining the best of both islands; Indonesia Island Hopping, 13 days that includes Komodo and its dragons; West Papua, 15 days in the jungles of the Baliem Valley; and East Indies Sea...

New book on children's rights

There's an intriguing new book coming out that touches on Indonesia, called The Trouble With the Alphabet. The overarching theme is children's welfare, and it's set up so that each letter of the alphabet, such as I for Indonesia, deals with children's rights in that particular nation.(Are there any countries that begin with X? Q could be Qatar, I guess ... but I digress.)Each chapter also links to a particular charity in that country, Indonesia's being World Neighbors, which from its website looks to be a bottom-up approach to finding local solutions to poverty. The book was conceived, written and illustrated by Colorado artist Caryn West, and...

People and nations, living on credit cards

Ironic, isn't it. Just as families are learning to live within their means, instead of taking out mortgages they can't afford and charging everything on plastic, governments are doing the exact opposite.To wit, Indonesia's new $5-billion round of emergency loans, added on to U.S.' $700-billion TARP program to buy up toxic assets ... or purchase equity stakes in banks ... or whatever they say it's for today.Not that I have any better suggestions. In fact some government spending may be very necessary, as economists like Nobel laureate Paul Krugman points out in the New York Times, to prevent us all from tipping from a severe recession into a Depression...

Islamic fashions rock the catwalk?!

It seems like an oxymoron - along with jumbo shrimp and military intelligence - but it looks like Islamic fashion is undergoing a bit of a boomlet.The faith's couture is usually associated with simple head-to-toe burqas, which don't seem like a natural fit for the world's catwalks. That's the territory of insane Western designers like Christian Lacroix and Dolce & Gabbana. But take a look at this report of the Islamic Fashion Festival in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, which belies the cultural stereotypes.Apparently burqas and abayas can be fashion-forward , according to Muslim designers like Tom Abang Saufi and Indonesian Ronald Gaghana. In fact...

Heartwarming story of the day: Balinese orphanage

In case you think you're just one person, not significant enough to change anything about the world, check out this story. It was sent to me by Cynthia Dammerer, about how a local hotel group is helping out a Balinese orphanage. Kind of puts things in perspective.�The traffic buzzed remorselessly down the highway, with cars, vans and bike jostling for the best position along the busy road between Nusa Dua and Benoa Harbour in beautiful Bali. Balinese families, sometimes three or four to a bike, pressed to get to work or home again.Our van swung suddenly into a rough country lane heading to a rubbish dump, up past the tethered cows and parked...

Get Obama some nasi goreng, stat!

The news that U.S. president-elect Barack Obama has a hankering for nasi goreng, bakso and rambutan - no joke - has got my taste buds flowing.Thankfully the consulate-general here in New York has a useful roundup of Indonesian eats in the city. There aren't that many, especially in comparison to Chinese takeout eateries that dot pretty much every block. But at least there are a handful where you can mainline your daily fix of tempeh, gado-gado, or mi goreng.I can only personally vouch for two - Bali Nusa Indah on 9th Ave., and Java Indonesia Rijstaffel on 7th Ave in Brooklyn, which ironically is just down the block. Fine establishments, both....

New book by Yours Truly ...

On a selfish note, I have a new book out, just in time for the holiday shopping rush (that is, if anyone has any money left in this recession!).It's called Thirty Things To Do When You Turn Thirty, and it's a collection of insightful essays from prominent thirtysomethings. People like singer-songwriter KT Tunstall, bestselling author Tim Ferriss, NBA star Chris Webber, Trading Spaces' Paige Davis, Huffington Post blog queen Rachel Sklar, the New York Times' Jenny 8. Lee, Google VP Doug Merrill, Time Inc.'s Vivek Shah, New York Observer publisher Jared Kushner, Penn State football legend Adam Taliaferro, Tango Diva founder Teresa Williamson, Paramount...

World AIDS Day & Indonesia

Yesterday was World AIDS Day, and judging from some startling new numbers, Indonesia is going to need a fresh strategy to cope with this deadly disease.The Health Ministry puts the number of cases nationwide at 18,000; the Association of Indonesian Physicians Concerned About HIV/AIDS puts it at 270,000. That's not just a clerical error ... that's a serious disconnect, that's putting lives at stake.In fact it's somewhat reminiscent of former South African president Thabo Mbeki, with his ineffectual response to HIV while his nation was ravaged by it. Given the recent push by Papuan legislators to implant sufferers with microchips, it looks like...

Need funding? Buy a bank

Here's an innovative idea in social entrepreneurship, fresh out of Indonesia: Nonprofit organizations going capitalist, and buying banks.That's what relief outfit Mercy Corps did, to give it an instant country-wide network for its microfinance projects. Bank Andara could serve as a funding clearinghouse for 2,000 microcredit programs across Indonesia, and with its existing web of ATMs, make accessing cash quick and easy.It's all recounted in the latest edition of BusinessWeek, and chief exec Neal Keny-Guyer spells out why the ultra-capitalist route makes sense for do-gooder organizations too. If the $300-million, 3,500-employee NGO likes what...

Eat Pray Love winners!

Congrats to the winners of our fantabulous Eat Pray Love giveaway, Justin Hampton of L.A. and Evimeinar Nasution of Winnipeg. Which begs the question, what's an Indonesian doing in the frozen tundra of Winnipeg, especially at this time of year? But I digress ... copies are on the way.For those less fortunate, get Elizabeth Gilbert's bestselling tale of her travels through Indonesia here, and check out her personal website here. And thanks again to the kind folks at Viking press. If you need a good stocking-stuffer for the holidays, here's a review excerpt from the New Yorker magazine:"At the age of thirty-one, Gilbert moved with her husband to...

Struggle for the soul of Islam?

Are we seeing a battle for the soul of Indonesian Islam, playing out before our eyes?Historically moderation has been the keyword, one that espouses tolerance as well as loyalty to one's faith. But with the world going to extremes, I wonder if it's a philosophy that's in retreat, even in Indonesia. The Jakarta Post has an article on the subject, with the news hook being the passage of the pornography bill, the emergence of shariah law in some areas, and the banning of the sect Jamaah Ahmadiyah, all of which tends towards a stricter Qu'ranic interpretation of the world.But more interesting than the text of the article itself, is the plethora of...

The Meaning of Mumbai

What makes me saddest about yesterday's Mumbai massacre, apart from the death and destruction that fill our screens, is how some of the most memorable places in the world are all being subsumed by terrorism.New York, London, Madrid, Bali ... the connotations these places bring up are no longer the greatness of human achivement, or the timelessness of their natural beauty, but the tragedy and gore of aimless terror.I've been to Mumbai, strolling along the grand gates of the waterfront, chewing betel nut purchased at local newsstands, drinking chai tea brewed in huge brass pots. Now I feel those days have been stolen by the Deccan Mujahadeen, replaced...

New Dow Jones ASEAN Index

Much ado has been made in recent months about shariah-compliant investing, especially with all the petrodollars washing around the Middle East. Muslim investors are looking for someplace to stash their billions, that's in line with Qu'ranic precepts against drinking, gambling, and the charging of interest. (So how does Saudi Prince Alaweed bin Talal become a major Citigroup shareholder? But I digress.)Anyhow, such investing has just been made easier, by the formation of the Dow Jones Islamic Market ASEAN Index. Included are shariah-compliant companies in six of the 10 ASEAN nations (Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and...

Of U.S.-Indonesia military ties

The military relationship between the U.S. and Indonesia has always been a bit of a head-scratcher. Under strongman Suharto, it was pretty tight, with joint exercises and copious supplies of military hardware. In recent years it's cooled off, just as a democratic government has taken hold.Ironic, for a U.S. administration that famously wanted to spread democracy around the world ... especially in Muslim countries. It's as if they were taking revenge for human-rights slights like the East Timor debacle, but long after the fact. Go figure.At any rate, the Wall Street Journal has an interesting piece on U.S.-Indonesia relations as a crucial test...

Best and Worst Places to do Business

Can you name the best place in Indonesia to do business? How about the worst?You don't have to guess anymore, because consulting firm KPPOD (with assists to the Asia Foundation and USAID) has come out with its ratings of 243 'regencies' throughout the archipelago. Using criteria like infrastructure, taxes, security, and 'Capacity of Mayor' (I love that one), they've ranked cities from top to bottom.(Check out the original survey link here, and Reuters' recent take here.)And so, without further adieu, the winners: Blitar and Magetan in East Java, Prabumulih and Musi Banyuasin in South Sumatra, and Jembrana in Bali. The stinkers on the other end...

Now online: Life Magazine's archive of Indonesia photos

Life Magazine may be dead and gone, another victim of the print-to-digital revolution, but its iconic photos live on. In fact Google is now hosting their entire photo archive, of which there are about 200 shots of Indonesia at critical moments through the country's history.It's quite an amazing voyage down memory lane. There are photos of Indonesian leaders in the fullness of youth, like Sukarno and Suharto; images of visiting dignitaries, like Robert F. Kennedy Jr. and the Soviet Union's Nikita Kruschev; nature shots from decades ago, of Sumatran tigers, Borneo orangutans and Komodo dragons; and regular folks caught in a moment in time, from...

Cruise Update: The Spice Islands

If you feel like getting away from it all for a while - far, far from the crashing Dow - reader Michael Corbett sends in word of a unique Indonesian cruise opportunity.The Orion is Australia's only five-star expedition cruise ship, and usually travels to spots like Oz's Arnham Land, Papua New Guinea, New Zealand and Antarctica. But in 2009 they're adding Southeast Asia to the roster, with its Spice Island Adventure.On the itinerary are islands like the Malukus, Komodo and Sumbawa, and the legendary dive site of Alor, along with rarely-seen spots like the uninhabited isle of Satonda. The nine-night adventure kicks off Sept. 10; prices range from...

Free stuff! Eat Pray Love giveaway

By now everyone knows about Eat Pray Love: One Woman's Search for Everything Across Italy, India and Indonesia. It's Elizabeth Gilbert's massive Oprah-blessed bestseller about travel and self-discovery, and now the good folks at Viking press have sent along a couple of copies for Everything Indonesia readers.To enter for the free drawing, send an e-mail to christaylornyc@gmail.com with "Eat Pray Love" in the subject line, and your mailing address in the body of the e-mail. I'll draw a couple of names from a hat and send free copies to the winners. If you're not one of those selected, then help out the author and buy the book at Amazon or Barnes...

Ouch! Jakarta Index falls some more

Here we go again. Another day, another 2% drop for the Jakarta Index. Indonesian stocks are caught in the downdraft of the American market (magnified by the fall of the rupiah), where the Dow is now below 8,000 and basically where it was five years ago. What was that about 10% annual returns, that our financial advisors kept telling us about?You're probably wondering about where to invest your money, when nowhere is safe. Good thing I just wrote an article for Canada's Globe Investor magazine, on what Ben Graham (the king of value investing) would do right now. The answer is he'd probably be buying.In a nutshell, Graham looked to buy companies...

Accor Hotels cornering the Indonesia market

It's tough times for the hospitality industry, but you wouldn't know it by how Accor Hotels chain is expanding its footprint in Indonesia. My friend Cynthia Dammerer sent an update of what's happening on the ground:"Accor will open its 7th hotel in Bali in May '09, a five-star Pullman-branded hotel - the first internationally branded complex for the Legian region, that is growing steadily in popularity with tourists. Complete with restaurants, bars and boutique shops, the hotel sits opposite the famed Kuta beach, at the quiet Legian end, and offers five-star luxury in guest rooms and suites; Pullman "welcomer service"; and edgy new standards...

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